Every program I place, explained plainly

Qualify an investment property on its rent instead of your income. No tax returns, no personal DTI, no cap on how many you hold, and you can close in an LLC.

12 or 24 months of deposits instead of tax returns. Built for business owners whose write-offs make them look poorer than they are.

The catch-all for files that don't fit agency rules — asset depletion, P&L only, 1099-based income, ITIN borrowers, and recent credit events that a conventional lender treats as disqualifying. Rates run above conventional, and they exist because 'doesn't fit the box' isn't the same as 'can't afford the house.'

Converts a substantial balance sheet into qualifying income without you selling or liquidating anything. Useful for retirees and for people whose wealth simply doesn't show up as monthly income.

You almost certainly don't need 20% down. Conventional from 3%, FHA from 3.5%, VA and USDA at zero — plus North Carolina's assistance programs.

The default for most buyers with documentable income and decent credit, and usually the cheapest money available. Mortgage insurance drops off once you reach 20% equity, which is a real advantage over FHA.

More forgiving on credit and on debt-to-income than conventional, at 3.5% down. The trade is mortgage insurance that generally stays for the life of the loan — which makes FHA a great way in and often a good candidate to refinance out of later.

If you've served, this is usually the best loan in the market: zero down, no monthly mortgage insurance, and competitive rates. Worth checking your eligibility even if you assume you don't have it.

Zero down in eligible rural and semi-rural areas, and the eligible map covers more ground around the edges of the Charlotte metro than most people expect. Income limits apply. Worth a check before you rule it out.

For loan amounts above the conforming limit — routine in Weddington and Marvin. Guidelines are set by the individual lender rather than the agencies, so shopping actually matters here more than almost anywhere else.

Financing a build rather than a purchase. One-time-close options roll construction and permanent financing into a single loan with one set of closing costs, which is usually the structure worth asking about.

Buy a house that needs work and finance the work into the same mortgage, based on what the property will be worth when it's done rather than what it's worth today.

Lower the rate, shorten the term, pull cash out, or get rid of mortgage insurance. The only honest test is the break-even: what it costs, divided by what it saves each month. If that number is longer than you'll keep the loan, I'll tell you not to do it.

Access equity without touching a first mortgage you'd rather keep — which matters enormously if your current rate is one you'll never see again.

Little or nothing down without mortgage insurance, and student debt treated sanely rather than as a disqualifier. Usually extends beyond physicians to dentists, veterinarians and some other professions depending on the lender.